MOZAMBIQUE ISLAND - EAST AFRICA – following the dhows south continued. Mozambique Island – the last of our so called ‘historical stopovers’ lay 130 miles away. As Kilwa and Ibo Island it was an important Muslim trading centre even before the colonization by the Portuguese. Due to its reputation as a shipbuilding centre and it’s easily defendable position it quickly became the centre of Portuguese nautical activities in East Africa in the 1500’s. In a bid to improve our fishing skills we had purchased some additional fishing gear in Pemba . Shortly before our arrival at Ilha do Mozambique our investment paid off handsomely when we landed a 20kg yellow fin tuna. We anchored in the lee of the fort and with full bellies (and more fish in the fridge) spent a peaceful night. The history of the island and for that matter Mozambique has been defined by this impressive and dominating fortress Sao Sebastao. With its 20m high walls it has withstood various attacks from the Omani’s, Dutch and French over the years, obstinately remaining under Portuguese command. To some degree we were ‘forted out’ during our visit but I still found it interesting. The Islands best drinking water comes from a well within its walls – a huge cool cavern with shafts of light steaming through the roof into its liquid base. It also includes a beautiful church Nossa Senhora Baluarte just inside its walls, built in 1522 it claims to be the oldest European building standing in the southern hemisphere. Present day Ilha do Mozambique is a busy populated narrow strip of land connected to the mainland by a bridge. It measures 2.5 km long and at no point is wider than 600 m. The Portuguese influence is clearly visible in the architecture that remains however life follows the Muslim routine as if the 40 years of European rule where just a blip on the radar screen. enjoyed the vibe on the island – it seemed that, as visitors, we were less of a celebrity (unlike Ibo) and life carried on around us as if we weren’t there. This allowed us to blend more and get an insight to the peoples’ daily lives. I enjoyed the market where I felt that we bought provisions at the same price as the locals. No Haggling necessary! |
